Wild Atlantic Way, Londonderry to Killybegs
Day 1
Set off from Londonderry, through Muff, and on to Moville pier. It was a fine, if derelict spot which reeked of dead fish on our visit, but none the less, a nice town, loads of eateries and pubs. The pier was quiet, the odd car came down for a nosey and two fishermen went crabbing around noon, but apart from that, quiet. Plenty of scope for walking and cycling.
.Day 2.
Our next visit, Kinnego Bay. A stunning beach, with quite a steep descent down to it, but there’s a large car park and lots of space to overnight. The beach is almost endless, and again, in the July holiday week, quiet, save for three tents. As we were down this way, we called in to Ballymagaraghy beach. Another fabulous beach, with free parking by the football pitch. I think it would be possible to stay the night, because the groundsman asked if we were staying because he had to lock the gates. Incidentally, very near Kinnego there is a white church, around the back is a toilet and tap. The tap is right beside the road, so a hose can be fitted if you’re short of water.
Culdaff was to be our next overnight, and this is where I remembered to save worthy coordinates. So N55 17 507 W007 08 661 is a worthwhile stopover. Toilets, and bins, but no water, and right beside the beach with splendid views. Very little in the village but it’s a nice walk in and out.
Day 3.
Spent the day touring before settling for the night at Ballymacstocker Bay.N55 11 301 W007 36 563
Our tour took us through Malin, Malin Head, Ramelton, Rathmullan, and then the fabulous drive to Port Salon. Malin, is as sleepy and empty as ever, Malin Head was a nightmare, with two local traders in vans, and happily abandoned vehicles. We wanted to overnight at Port Salon pier, but the traffic and parking was such that I had to reverse up the hill again to get away. A place to be avoided if you’re running late, it was 9:40pm by the time we arrived. Sort of did us a favour because we parked closer to our route and there were public toilets, which are locked at night but open at six am.
We have stayed in Rathmullan car park before and it’s very good with a pub right on the doorstep, Ramelton is a nicer town with overnighting possible down by the old docks. Conways pub, down there is not to be missed.
Day 4.
Did the Cardonagh, Melmore gap, Doagh famine village, Ballyliffin, Downings, and Singing Pub section.
This on a fine sunny day is a fabulous experience, but sadly it rained on us for most of the day. The singing pub is MH friendly, there is a water tap at the parking area but it is painfully slow, Less than 40 litres in the time it takes to drink two pints of very fine Guinness. Ballytoarty or Min Larach is a small harbour where the ferry for Tory Island leaves from, one of two ports. It has a large car park with no camping signs but that didn’t deter us and three other vans from staying. There is a café with toilets, but they don’t open until around 11 am and closes when the café does. Didn’t try the food so can’t comment.
Day 5.
Headed south through Bunbeg, Gweedore, and Ardara. Before driving the ten long miles on a single track lane to reach An Port.
There are some fab photo opportunities along this stretch. Bunbeg is a quaint place with space to overnight on the pier, and at the strand in front of the disused hotel. The whole Gweedore area is charming and friendly. Ardara has some fine drinking holes and free parking overnight is available at the town car park.
An Port is a different story, our travelling companions wanted to stay there as the lady had stayed there with her daughter. It is a desolate and isolated spot at the end of a long single track road. It is little used thankfully, because passing places are rare. The coordinates are N55 44 851 W008 42 121
If you want total solitude, this is the place, your only neighbours are sheep and gulls. There are a couple of walks over the hills, and a rocky beach, sand less. Two lobster men arrived at 5am and went off in their boat not returning before we left at noon.
Day 6.
We’d forgotten to visit Portnoo, so we backtracked. Narin and Portnoo are only a km apart. There is a lovely beach with a large car park attached. Toilets and water are available but it can get very busy. We went to Maghera Caves next. There is a small car park with toilets and these are 50c to use. Motorhomes are charged at 5 euro, which the owner was going to reduce to 3 since there were two vans. We declined, happy to spend euros and get something in return, but this man with a small car park attached to one’s house is just being opportunistic
The drive to our next destination, Slieve League, was a treat. The first part up over the mountain was like driving through Glencoe. Fabulous. Slieve Leage, where it’s possible to drive up to the top car park with viewing area, is a must see. It makes the Cliffs of Moher look feeble. Our journey towards Killybegs was stopped abruptly at Kitty Kellys restaurant at Largysillagh, a few ks out of Killybegs. The food was excellent and being able to stay out the back was every bit as good.
Day 7.
Had a look around Killybegs. A great fishing port, and we did the Donegal Carpets factory tour. Very interesting and informative. On down the road to Mount Charles, a village bypassed now but not really worth the stop. Into Donegal for our last night on this section of the WAW. It was after five by the time we arrived and once we got sorted on the pier, we called into Doms Pier One, for dinner and a wee drop of Guinness. The food was ok! There are much better eateries in the town, loads more. We called in to some other hostelries since there was no driving, and on the way back up the pier car park, I put 40c into the meter and that got me out of jail until 10:40 later in the morning! We did the castle tour and it was only just worth the three euro fee.
We were about to go home, but decided to head south a bit, and ended up at Glencar Waterfall, where we are now, for the night. Car park and toilets. Filled with diesel and free water at Abbey Garage Ballyshannon. So can’t say when we will go home, because even managed to empty the cassette here at the toilets.
Day 1
Set off from Londonderry, through Muff, and on to Moville pier. It was a fine, if derelict spot which reeked of dead fish on our visit, but none the less, a nice town, loads of eateries and pubs. The pier was quiet, the odd car came down for a nosey and two fishermen went crabbing around noon, but apart from that, quiet. Plenty of scope for walking and cycling.
.Day 2.
Our next visit, Kinnego Bay. A stunning beach, with quite a steep descent down to it, but there’s a large car park and lots of space to overnight. The beach is almost endless, and again, in the July holiday week, quiet, save for three tents. As we were down this way, we called in to Ballymagaraghy beach. Another fabulous beach, with free parking by the football pitch. I think it would be possible to stay the night, because the groundsman asked if we were staying because he had to lock the gates. Incidentally, very near Kinnego there is a white church, around the back is a toilet and tap. The tap is right beside the road, so a hose can be fitted if you’re short of water.
Culdaff was to be our next overnight, and this is where I remembered to save worthy coordinates. So N55 17 507 W007 08 661 is a worthwhile stopover. Toilets, and bins, but no water, and right beside the beach with splendid views. Very little in the village but it’s a nice walk in and out.
Day 3.
Spent the day touring before settling for the night at Ballymacstocker Bay.N55 11 301 W007 36 563
Our tour took us through Malin, Malin Head, Ramelton, Rathmullan, and then the fabulous drive to Port Salon. Malin, is as sleepy and empty as ever, Malin Head was a nightmare, with two local traders in vans, and happily abandoned vehicles. We wanted to overnight at Port Salon pier, but the traffic and parking was such that I had to reverse up the hill again to get away. A place to be avoided if you’re running late, it was 9:40pm by the time we arrived. Sort of did us a favour because we parked closer to our route and there were public toilets, which are locked at night but open at six am.
We have stayed in Rathmullan car park before and it’s very good with a pub right on the doorstep, Ramelton is a nicer town with overnighting possible down by the old docks. Conways pub, down there is not to be missed.
Day 4.
Did the Cardonagh, Melmore gap, Doagh famine village, Ballyliffin, Downings, and Singing Pub section.
This on a fine sunny day is a fabulous experience, but sadly it rained on us for most of the day. The singing pub is MH friendly, there is a water tap at the parking area but it is painfully slow, Less than 40 litres in the time it takes to drink two pints of very fine Guinness. Ballytoarty or Min Larach is a small harbour where the ferry for Tory Island leaves from, one of two ports. It has a large car park with no camping signs but that didn’t deter us and three other vans from staying. There is a café with toilets, but they don’t open until around 11 am and closes when the café does. Didn’t try the food so can’t comment.
Day 5.
Headed south through Bunbeg, Gweedore, and Ardara. Before driving the ten long miles on a single track lane to reach An Port.
There are some fab photo opportunities along this stretch. Bunbeg is a quaint place with space to overnight on the pier, and at the strand in front of the disused hotel. The whole Gweedore area is charming and friendly. Ardara has some fine drinking holes and free parking overnight is available at the town car park.
An Port is a different story, our travelling companions wanted to stay there as the lady had stayed there with her daughter. It is a desolate and isolated spot at the end of a long single track road. It is little used thankfully, because passing places are rare. The coordinates are N55 44 851 W008 42 121
If you want total solitude, this is the place, your only neighbours are sheep and gulls. There are a couple of walks over the hills, and a rocky beach, sand less. Two lobster men arrived at 5am and went off in their boat not returning before we left at noon.
Day 6.
We’d forgotten to visit Portnoo, so we backtracked. Narin and Portnoo are only a km apart. There is a lovely beach with a large car park attached. Toilets and water are available but it can get very busy. We went to Maghera Caves next. There is a small car park with toilets and these are 50c to use. Motorhomes are charged at 5 euro, which the owner was going to reduce to 3 since there were two vans. We declined, happy to spend euros and get something in return, but this man with a small car park attached to one’s house is just being opportunistic
The drive to our next destination, Slieve League, was a treat. The first part up over the mountain was like driving through Glencoe. Fabulous. Slieve Leage, where it’s possible to drive up to the top car park with viewing area, is a must see. It makes the Cliffs of Moher look feeble. Our journey towards Killybegs was stopped abruptly at Kitty Kellys restaurant at Largysillagh, a few ks out of Killybegs. The food was excellent and being able to stay out the back was every bit as good.
Day 7.
Had a look around Killybegs. A great fishing port, and we did the Donegal Carpets factory tour. Very interesting and informative. On down the road to Mount Charles, a village bypassed now but not really worth the stop. Into Donegal for our last night on this section of the WAW. It was after five by the time we arrived and once we got sorted on the pier, we called into Doms Pier One, for dinner and a wee drop of Guinness. The food was ok! There are much better eateries in the town, loads more. We called in to some other hostelries since there was no driving, and on the way back up the pier car park, I put 40c into the meter and that got me out of jail until 10:40 later in the morning! We did the castle tour and it was only just worth the three euro fee.
We were about to go home, but decided to head south a bit, and ended up at Glencar Waterfall, where we are now, for the night. Car park and toilets. Filled with diesel and free water at Abbey Garage Ballyshannon. So can’t say when we will go home, because even managed to empty the cassette here at the toilets.
