truma ultrstore rapide

trev

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truma ultrstore rapide

· Posted: 27.03.2017 · #1

How's all
I'm back after a break.
had a lad over doing the gas safety checks on the camper and were getting a high CO reading from the exhaust on my truma water heater.
ran it for a few hours drained the hot water ran it again. hoovered out the exhaust in case of debris and it's still the same.
it starts of low then goes mad high into dangerous levels.
Also its cutting in and out a bit you can hear the igniter kicking in and out.
Any ideas what causing this?
thanks

Ally

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Re: truma ultrstore rapide

· Posted: 28.03.2017 · #2

Surprised the 'lad' couldn't sort it? is he Gas Safe registered?

Have you tried changing the bottle? I know that sounds daft but there is plenty of faulty/dirty bottles coming up. Flame blue or yellow?

trev

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Re: truma ultrstore rapide

· Posted: 28.03.2017 · #3

he's RGI registered same thing I think. he hadn't come across this before so thought I'd put it out therein case it's one of those things that happens regularly.
was hoping I'd get an answer like you just need to clean this part or open this and check that, you know what i mean.
swapped gas bottles with nothing changed.
haven't got to the flame yet, can't figure how to access the burner without taking out the unit. it's fitted in the bottom of the wardrobe behind the space heater. hardship to get at

Ally

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Re: truma ultrstore rapide

· Posted: 28.03.2017 · #4

That's my technical knowledge done.

I would of done exact same as you, clean out what I can and change bottle.

Hopefully someone else can help.

Mark&Wendy

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Re: truma ultrstore rapide

· Posted: 28.03.2017 · #5

Quote - "CO is produced by incomplete combustion in a heater or boiler. As burning fuel is starved of air it generates higher levels of CO, this is due to there being insufficient oxygen to produce carbon dioxide (CO2). CO2 is produced when carbon in fuel is fully burnt and all the heat released. With a shortage of oxygen the carbon does not fully burn and produces carbon monoxide (CO).

In a domestic boiler CO can be produced by the following problems:

Blocked flue not allowing the products to escape.
Inadequate air supply causing a shortage of oxygen.
Flue products entering the air supply and causing a shortage of oxygen.
Worn burner parts causing incomplete combustion of fuel.
Any of the above causes, linked to conditions where CO can enter a room, is a recipe for disaster or ultimately... DEATH!"

What is the ventilation like around the boiler? Mine has a large air vent built into the seat base.

trev

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Re: truma ultrstore rapide

· Posted: 28.03.2017 · #6

It's vented out through the side of the van.
The CO isn't getting into the van but if it's high outside at the exhaust it still isn't safe.

the fat controller

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Re: truma ultrstore rapide

· Posted: 29.03.2017 · #7

I would have thought not enough air for the burner and/or a worn burner.

Check that air can get to the burner then check/replace the burner unit.

Personally I would have thought a gas engineer would have pointed you in this direction, failing that you may be better to pass it to a caravan/motorhome service centre.

killiand

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Re: truma ultrstore rapide

· Posted: 29.03.2017 · #8

can i ask a silly question - does the burner require you to be on a flat surface? - if so, were you? ours clicked on and off repeatedly - but only once (which I couldn't figure out at the time) but in hindsight I've attributed it to being considerably at an angle...

trev

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Re: truma ultrstore rapide

· Posted: 29.03.2017 · #9

The lad that looked at it is reckoning it's either dirty or a worn burner.

It's on a the level

Problem is the burner isn't accessible without stripping the unit.

I've to drain it and try and get the water container part out and the burner is under it,

Hardship

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Re: truma ultrstore rapide

· Posted: 29.03.2017 · #10

You'll find the actual burner has rusted away and gas is burning from the holes.
Good news is the body is stainless, the ends are light gauge steel with the flame tube up the centre rotting away.
I have repaired those, remove the burner, fabricate up new end plates with 16mm holes and remount the flame tube.
Tig weld in the new end plates with flame tube in situ.
Takes a bit of time but he few I've done work a treat, CO readings correct and efficiency massively improved.

Remove the outer cover ff the burner, 4 screws hold it on. The mastic will be firm to remove, just run a knife around the parimeter and it will release.
When you have that off there is a little panel held on situ with 2 Phillips head screws, they usually wring off as they are seized and will require manufacturing 2 brackets to re-mount it. You will now see the burner, chances is that it will be lying there with end plarptes rotted away.
Switch the gas bottle off, there is 2 screws to the right under the electronic solenoid valve, remove them and the 2 wires from the solenoid and using a flat blade screwdriver you should be able to release the burner, solenoid and associated assembly....and be careful there are 2 neropreane o rings to seal the gas.
Either fit a new burner or have that one repaired.
Installation is in reverse.

I really must learn how to use a camera !

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