Head gasket

Hi All.
I bought a camper about a year and a half ago.It's a 94 swift kontiki and have had no luck since I bought it.After about two weeks of buying it she started giving trouble and haven't stopped since.First problem was when I started it she would cut out after a minute or so and start blowing white smoke.Had mechanic fit New fuel pump and that sorted out the cutting out problem but still blowing white smoke but would die out after a few minutes,mechanic said that it was because it was an old camper.so took it for a spin one day and she struggled to do 40k on the flat and nearly stopped on any incline.then electrics went in the habitation area,got a leak in the roof,needed new jets in the fridge,so I decided to hand the camper into a garage that just do campers to get it all sorted out.They sorted out everything except the engine,they said it would cost me to much money for them to delve any deeper into the engine,he recommended I go to a local mechanic who would not be as expensive as them.So I drove the camper over to my local mechanic again at 40k,lucky all on the flat.so he changed the fuel lines and cleaned out the fuel tank,and said it was full of gunk.so I drove it home and the most she would do was 80k on the flat and was still sluggish on hills(this is a 2.5 turbo diesel)does this sound right to you? So still not happy with the engine a lad with a garage across from where I work did a combination test and said I had a crack in the head gasket and it would cost around 1000e to fix but he wouldn't have the room to keep the camper inside,he would have to take out the engine and leave the camper outside.so I decided not to go with this I didn't want the camper outside of the garage.so I said it to my local mechanic he said sell it because it could run in to thousands.So then I asked a friend of mine who has a camper whose brother is a mechanic and looks after his camper to have a look.he called out to the house to have a look and agreed it was the head gasket and could possibly be only firing on 2 cylinders because of the lack of power on hills and a rattling sound that is now coming from the engine when I accelerate.I would love to here your advice/recommendations on where to go from here.I don't have thousands to be throwing on it.unfortunately for me and my family the joy and excitement of owning a camper has gone,my wife want me to get rid of it,but I know if I can get it sorted for reasonable money there will be good times ahead.(sorry if I have bored you with this long novel but at my widths end now).
LIAM.

Thanks for your reply.It was recommended to me by the last lad that had a look at the engine to keep an eye out for an engine.There is one near where I live I will try them to see if they have anything.The camper is a Talbot express with a peugeot engine but I read somewhere that a Citroen engine would also do.Do you know of any other breakers that would be worth calling.Your son done well with his car.

Ps swifty, yes the engine is the same in Talbot, citroen, fiat of that era. I had the same2.5TD engine in my last Hymer, if you can get a decent engine they are actually sound and you could have the makings of a good MH...good luck

Didn't know a fiat engine would do as well.I'll make a few calls and post how I got on.

Same engine used in the Citroen XM car too.
The 2.5 TD is a pretty reliable unit, but does have some known issues.
Mine run poor when I bought it, underpowered and smokey when starting...... I knew the previous owner was a keen DIY'er who did not have the ability to do engine work.
The engine does not need to be removed to do he head, or other things for that matter.
I removed the cylinder head, first apparent thing was the camshaft was severely worn.
Stripped the head down, removed the 12 valves ( 2 inlet valves per pot) and refaced the seats, ground the valves and skimmed the head.
Replaced the camshaft and 12 new followers.
I then removed the sump and popped up the pistons (little wear on the cylinders, actually none)..... I replaced all the rings and honed the cylinders well.
Re-installed pistons with new bearings, replaced the oil pump and drive chain.
Refitted the cylinder head. Add d new nozzles to the injectors and had the pump run on the bench (it was fine).
Checked the turbocharger and wastegate condition, all good but cleaned up.
Added new timing belt and tensioners. Fitted new water pump ( not required as not driven of timing belt)
Full service done.
Final job was ( this causes most problems on these engines) was a new radiator.
Bit of tweaking and started it up, ran well. Starts up first time, no smoke, runs sweetly.
Will do 120K if you wring it's neck but comfortable at 100K all day on the French motorways. Returns about 25 MPG.

Parts are inexpensive for these. New cam and followers was €150, rings was €50, oil pump/chain was €50, 4 injectors refurb €100, service items inc belts oils filters etc was another €150, radiator was €55 and I suppose another €200 for other bits..... so about 650/700 euro total.
I was lucky as I have the machines, workshop and the ability to do it, if I were doing this for a client then I'd be charging approx €1000-€1500 labour for it.
I've probably gone over the top with the refurbishment but I've ended up with what is to all purposes a new engine that I can rely on.
Have an engine I would go anywhere with, runs well, no ECU or electrics to trip it up and soon off for another trip around France.

Don't give up, it's all fixable !

Sofim 8140.27
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sofim
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiat_Ducato

JJF, how much km/miles before that work?

Hi, 2.5 boxer diesel engine for sale on donedeal. €225 engine is in mayo

Does it start easily enough ?
If so, advance the pump timing a wee bit, makes an unbelievable difference.
Very easily done, will post up how to do it if you need.

Also check Adverts.ie for a fiat ducato for breaking. Similar to talbot express

I've heard that Sofim have cold white smoke just because of small oil leaking through valves after last hot running. After burning or heating engine it's gone, nothing about pistons and high pressure pump. If you have loud knocking may be nozzles or timing pump, not cam, maybe choke stay on warm position. warm engine work fine because pump is on right position.
Broken head gasket? can be only: water in oil, high pressure in water right on cold start and high flowing air when you remove oil cap where you fill up oil.
Once happen to me on italian WM diesel, loud knocking, whater choke blocked. sometimes fine cold start, bad hot work, sometimes hard start, fine hot work.

was the engine you reconned the fiat/sofim black top 2.5 engine, is there much involved in advancing
the pump timing.as i said earlier after the initial 10/15 mins the smoke gets less and less but there's
always plenty of power and once used every day there's on smoke.

THIS IS A LIBRARY PICTURE, YOUR INJECTOR PUMP WILL BE VERY SIMILAR

Your pump will look a lot like this when you've removed the timing cover.



Now mark around the 3x 13mm bolts with tippex like this (excuse my artwork !) this marks the initial spot as they are now.



Slacken these bolts about 1/2 to 3/4 a turn, no more than that. Now the 3 bolts will rotate around the pump pulley on the slotted holes.



Now, move the 3 bolts NO MORE than .5mm (half of 1mm) ...that's enough, believe me. You will see the half millimetre on the gap on your tippex mark.



Now tighten the bolts back up. Please note where the .5mm gap is on in that last picture, that advances the timing. If the gap s on the other side it retards the timing. Make sure you have it correct.
When all is tightened up then start the engine. You should see an immediate difference on the starting and the smoke.

Good stuff.
Yes, if you slacken th 3 bolts then they actually rotate about the slotted holes and the centre bolt can be used to turn it, or simply the 3 bolts will turn easy anyway.
Engine bits no problem at all, big outfit in Latvia has everything.
If replacing rings be careful, about 4 different ones. I measured mine with micrometer and measured bore to be exact....... but no problem getting them.
Camshaft likewise, 2.5 non turbo and 2.5 turbo have different cams, overlap on turbo about 20deg more and sharper lift profile. Makes a big difference in performance.
The followers are always worn, wrong oil and infrequent changes is usually the culprit.

These engines are old school, build them right and service regularly and they'll do a long time.
Nothing really to go wrong with them, no ECU to be bothered with and turbo is not a high pressure unit and with full manual control it doesn't give problems.

I do think the cooling system is important, full flush when head is off, new water pump and whack in a new radiator.... less than €100 for all.

Excellent tutorial JJF well done.

Well done John,its great to get help like that

You're running a Lucas pump then. If the pump moves then it's opposite to the way I explained !!
The top of the pump will require pushing in closer to the engine block to advance the timing....